COVID travels 2: Turkey’s heart.

After five days spent chasing Mehmet the Conqueror’s shadow in a scorching Istanbul, haunted by moody cats and hungry carpet sellers, we left for dusty Edirne. The second Ottoman capital is a sleepy town in the tiny, bland European Turkey, and renting a car was a challenge, since they hadn’t heard of one-way rentals, butContinue reading “COVID travels 2: Turkey’s heart.”

It’s all Greek

Athens, the second stop on our long trip east, isn’t Paris. Just as Paris is profoundly Western in its gallic snotty attitude, rich flavor and fastidiousness, Athens belongs to the East. The sun is hotter, the streets narrower, the decibels roar. Neighbors shout at each other from across the street, motorcycles rev their stinky engines,Continue reading “It’s all Greek”